One of the delights about working in the fashion industry is learning to synthesise the landscape of trends into bite-sized observations. The one thing I’ve noticed the last few seasons? The sudden extreme range, depth and irregularity of trends alongside the rise of the 2000s spectacle show. Meanwhile, we have the rise of a more formal, ‘stealth-wealth’ signature style and a return to true craftmanship. It means we are nearing a new playing field where ‘it’ trends go to die. This is only good news - for sustainability - and the consumer.
It’s also why Chloe’s full circular moment at Paris Fashion Week left us smiling. A brand striding confidently back towards its DNA is a very good thing.
Trends have always been circular, existing in an industry vacuum so poetically deciphered in that infamous ‘cerulean’ Meryl Streep - aka Miranda Preisley - scene. To be fair, it’s no different to other creative industries; in the art world, a handful of people sit at the pinnacle signing off on the handful of top art exhibitions that will stream into the public’s consciousness. Trends exist in order to push the merry-go-round of capitalism. Newness ushers in money, more creation and then the cycle repeats at fascinating speed peppered in direction by a very small team at the top of their game.
However, there are always a handful of wardrobe staples that make a continual appearance and in this phase of formality, brands are going full circle towards trusty transitional staples. Last year we were caught off-guard by Anderson’s ‘ghostly apparition of a trench’ printed on a dress towards the end of the Loewe show. As is his signature, he had tapped into the unnerving zeitgeist with an antiquated piece. The trench is a timeless British design item - a symbol of class and status - derived from its military beginnings. The trench coat was literally born of being in the trenches during the war. Is there a better garment that reflects the collective feeling these last few years? I think not.
At The Row last week in Paris, we saw (after the show - due to the social media ban) crafted images emerge of a sculptural, voluminous swing trench that apparently opened the show. Cascading shoulder epaulettes and a tall layered collar offset the asymmetric cut and punctuated buttons. Clearly the trench is the full circle piece to watch - as are the notebooks and pencils that were provided at every seat for recording thoughts and sketches at The Row according to WWD - just like the good old days!
There has never been a better time to start (or update!) your trench wardrobe. The breadth and depth of shapes, textures and tones has never been more varied. This timeless outer layer is the backbone of a modern working wardrobe so invest wisely.
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