Image: Camino Frances map, c/o Responsible Travel
In this short, new series we’re going to be sharing pilgrim and local insights into five of the bigger town and city stops along the Camino de Santiago (Camino Frances) pilgrimage route. The towns and cities of Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon and Santiago de Compostela all make for perfect places for a rest day (or final day) along the Camino and so we wanted to share not just what we learnt from taking rest days there, but also insights from locals and fellow pilgrims about where to stay, what to do and where to eat.
Even if you’re not planning your own Camino de Santiago journey, each of these cities in Northern Spain are absolutely worth a weekend away, perhaps creating a more authentic Spanish experience than some of the big, tourist cities we all know and love.
A big thank you to Jose Mari Ardanaz Ezcurdia, a local resident and Camino friend who helped us put together this piece on Pamplona.
Image: Arriving in Pamplona, taken on our Sony Camera, May 2022
This week we’re starting our new series on cities of the Camino with Pamplona. We reached Pamplona on 22nd May 2022, our fourth day of the Camino de Santiago. I had developed my first blisters (of many) the day before, walking into the small but picturesque village of Zubiri at the base of the Pyrenees. It had been the hardest day of the Camino for us so far, with a long descent ending in several kilometres of paved roads, hard on the blisters, and so I was leaning heavily on two walking poles as we paced through the old walls and up into the city. A quick footnote, don’t lean on walking poles if you have blisters, it creates much more harm than good!
Pamplona: What you should know
Nestled in the beautiful region of Navarre in northern Spain, Pamplona is a city with a rich tapestry of history, culture, and basque tradition. Renowned for its vibrant festivals, Pamplona is perhaps most famous for the Running of the Bulls, an event that draws people from around the world to its cobbled streets each July.
The Running of the Bulls takes place as part of the Festival of San Fermin, dating back to the 13th century, from 7th to 14th July each year. However, few tourists realise that the bull run didn’t originate as part of a religious festival. Cattle herders who wanted to transport their animals from barges or the countryside into city centres for sale or bullfights needed a practical means of moving their valuable animals. Over the years, it became a tradition to clear a narrow swath into the city centre, through which the animals would run together into a basic pen or bullring, following one brave herder. Nowadays the bull run in Pamplona is the biggest in the world, drawing over a million tourists from around the globe.
Beyond this iconic event, Pamplona’s streets offer a welcoming blend of medieval architecture and lush green spaces. Its history dates back to Roman times, and the well-preserved old town is a testament to its enduring heritage, with its charming streets, modern amenities and lively atmosphere.
Image: Pamplona Cathedral, by javierb34 on Pixabay
Pamplona: Where to stay
We steamed into Pamplona as fast as we could to secure four beds in the biggest municipal pilgrim accommodation, Jesús y María Pilgrims' Hostel. The hostel opens at 12noon each day and as we arrived a little before midday, there were just a few pilgrims ahead of us in the queue. It was a hot, hot day, and I vividly remember sitting on my bag in the entryway, hot, sweaty and tired, and desperate to take off my shoes.
Jesus y Maria is open daily (except over Christmas) to pilgrims and tourists alike, offering bunk bed accommodation in small cubicles sleeping four to six over two floors. The bathrooms were simple but functional, with hot showers (take flip flops or sliders for the floor!) and a work area downstairs for charging and using the wifi. The accommodation had a simple washing area downstairs and a large outside courtyard with plenty of dryers to hang your freshly washed walking socks on.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay that’s a little less… communal shall we say… then how about Gran Hotel La Perla? This historic five-star hotel in Plaza del Castillo boasts past guests including Ernest Hemingway, Charlie Chaplin and Woody Allen. Standard rooms start at around €180 per night.
And if that’s much too far the other way, then try Aloha Hostel, located near the bus station and with a mix of small dormitories and private rooms priced from €25 per night.
Image: Plaza del Castillo, Pamplona, Photo by David Vives on Unsplash
Pamplona: What to do
There is so much to do in Pamplona! More than a pilgrim will probably manage on a single rest day, with enough to entertain you for an entire weekend break in this charming city. We asked Jose Mari of El Camino People, long-time resident of Pamplona, about his favourite spots in the city. Choose wisely if you only have a few hours or a day:
The Citadel of Pamplona - One of the best examples of Spanish military architecture from the Renaissance, this pentagon-shaped fortress is 280,000 square metres in size!
Plaza del Castillo - A large, beautiful square just round the corner from Jesus y Maria Pilgrim’s Hostel, surrounded by bars, cafes and restaurants that come alive at night. Many restaurants and bars in Spain don’t start livening up until later - watch out for this if you’re a tired pilgrim wanting to eat early and go to bed!
Pamplona Cathedral and Museum - One of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Spain, alongside a wonderful museum of religious art from Navarre. Not far at all from most central places to stay and definitely worth a visit!
Take a walk in the Parque de la Taconera - The oldest gardens in Pamplona, the gardens at Parque de la Taconear were designed in 1830 and still retain their French-style romantic atmosphere.
Museo de Navarra - The Museum of Navarre houses a range of works of art from prehistoric times through to the twentieth century. Here you’ll find Roman capitals from the original Pamplona Cathedral and a portrait of the Marquis of San Adrián, signed by Goya in 1804.
Capilla de San Fermin - Playing a key role in the festivals of Pamplona, this is where the procession of San Fermin begins every July, kicking off the Running of the Bulls.
Walk the route of the Running of the Bulls and visit the Arena - The Running of the Bulls runs along the narrow streets of the old quarter of Pamplona, starting from the slope of Santo Domingo Street all the way up to the bullring. In total, it covers 875 meters and you can walk it and then visit the Arena, should you wish.
Visit Bar Iruna and Hemingway Corner - If you’re a Hemingway fan then don’t miss visiting Cafe Iruna, the meeting point for the main characters in ‘The Sun Also Rises’ the novel that made Hemingway stand out as one of the great writers of all time and that put Pamplona on the world literature map. Inside the cafe is the so-called “Rincón de Hemingway” – Hemingway’s Corner where you’ll find a life-size sculpture of the great man himself.
Image: San Fermin, Pamplona, Image by San Fermin Pamplona - Navarra from Pixabay
Pamplona: Where to eat
Our favourite pastime in Spain, clearly other than walking, is sitting. Finding a cafe, restaurant or bar, a refreshing glass of Estrella or Rioja in hand, watching the world go by and eating pintxo or tapas. This is living the dream in my book.
Thanks again to Jose Mari, for helping us pull together this list of the best places to eat (and what to eat when you’re there) when in Pamplona.
Best bars and restaurants to try (as recommended by locals):
El Gaucho, on Calle Espoz y Mina - Try the pintxo de huevo poche, the foie and the sea urchin.
Baserriberi, on Calle San Nicolás - The bombeja is a must and the tasting menu (Menu Degustacion) is incredible!
Bar Rio, on Calle San Nicolás - The deep-fried boiled egg with bechamel is amazing.
La Mandarra de la Ramos, on Calle San Nicolás - Traditional and delicious food, set amongst traditional hams hanging on the roof.
Verduarte, on Plaza del Baluarte - Serving mostly vegetables and a small piece of meat or fish, this place is incredible and is a definite future Michelin star!
Zanpa, on Calle de la Estafeta - Really good and fresh local cuisine but also does amazing tapas or raciones at the bar.
Olaverri, on Calle de Sta Marta - A little walk from the old town but easily the best steak in town!
Image: Dinner time, Photo by Annie Spratt on Unsplash
What’s next?
You’ve eaten, you’ve rested, you’ve walked the Running of the Bulls, and now it’s time to put your walking shoes back on and head back on the path. It’s just over 25km walk next to Puente de la Reina, a gorgeous little town with a historic centre and beautiful bridge over the River Arga.
These are still the early days of the Camino Frances and you are still finding your feet.
If you’re interested in seeing more, you can watch the vlog we made of our walk into Pamplona from Zubiri and then on from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina.
Image: Onwards from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina, Louise’s iPhone, May 2022
Keep an eye out for future posts from this series on Cities of the Camino, our next stop will be beautiful Logrono.
We’ll then be headed on foot towards Burgos, Leon and then finally, Santiago de Compostela itself.
See you on the road!
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