Tucked away far from the rest of the outside world, at the very end of a long, winding, increasingly imposing canyon lies the mountain boondocks of Telluride, Colorado.
The town sits at the bottom of what feels like a giant alpine bathtub, with its streets terminating at mountain faces that rise up in nearly every direction to around 14,000 feet above the base elevation of 8750.
Unless you have your own plane, there’s no easy way to get there, so consider yourself fortunate if you manage to find the one road that leads into town.
To give you a sense of how remote you are, the local news broadcasts from Denver, a mere 7 hour drive away.
The intriguing mix of world class scenery and isolation attracts hardy, industrious folk to the world class skiing in winter and world class everything-else-outdoors in summer.
It’s the kind of place that the likes of Oprah, Tom Cruise, and Ralph Lauren go to get away from it all—not to mention those looking to check out of the rat race. Like any in-demand paradise, it is trying to find a balance between catering to the whims of a global elite with a local workforce and everyday core clientele. Despite the fact there are entire neighborhoods of 10,000 square foot ski-in mansions that sit empty 90% of the year, thankfully, not much of that wealth and pretension makes its way into the overall vibe of the place.
Many of the area’s rarefied joys are relatively accessible. There’s mountain top wine chalets that don’t require a reservation. Stove-warmed saloons serve local brews. You can buy reasonably priced homemade tacos from a street vendor right outside the station of the remarkable, totally free, gondola public transit system.
People are down to earth. Though it’s a common sight to see folks parading through town in ski boots, outerwear tends to skew more functional than fashionable. Fords and Tacomas seem to have a slight edge on Teslas and Land Rovers. And while there’s a Patagonia outpost on main street, and you can browse the Moncler section at the local outfitter, you won’t find the likes of Gucci, Dior or Prada boutiques that show up in other ski destination idylls.
It helps to think of Telluride as two towns in one. There’s the main town that lies at the base of the canyon and dates back to 1878. It has the feel of a no-stoplight, rural American town with a classic, Victorian era main street (Colorado Avenue) and a mix of new and old buildings that blend relatively well together. It’s rather small, very walkable, with chock full of dining, drinking and shopping options during the high seasons. The town is essentially its own ski resort and from just about any address you can walk right up to the lifts and hit the slopes.
Then, at a 1000 foot higher elevation, and 2 miles away via free Gondola, there’s the newer, smaller “Mountain Village.” Founded in 1995, this “town” has a vibe that is a world apart from downtown Telluride in that it feels very much like a pre-planned, Disney-fied resort. The ski lifts cut right through Mountain Village’s main square, and while there’s plenty of great things to do including high end shopping and dining options, overall it lacks a bit of soul when compared to the original town.
In any event, both are worth exploring, and below are some highlights of things to eat, drink and do while visiting in the winter…
Telluride
Floradora Saloon- 50 year old restaurant on main strip in a historic building with a great bar. Feels like the kind of a place a local pro snowboarder would take their family for dinner.
Side Work - Excellent food across the board. Oysters, hamachi crudo, octopus, burrata, risotto, pork, salmon, etc. You don’t expect all these things to taste so good in the middle of the continent.
On the mountain
Alpino Vino - One of those spots that feels like you’re making a pilgrimmage. An isolated chalet serving great food and wine that sits atop the mountain at 12,000 feet with world class views. It’s only accessible via skis from lift 14 between 11am-3pm (or via snowcat if you make an evening reservation).
Bon Vivant - Basically a French version of Alpino Vino in the middle of the mountain. Very cool as well.
Telluride
New Sheridan Historic Bar - Historic bar with fireplace and pool hall that is open late.
Last Dollar Saloon - Classic ski town bar.
O’Bannon’s Irish Pub - Funky subterranean Irish pub with a dance floor. Where the dark underbelly of Telluride hangs out late night.
Mountain Village
Poacher’s Pub - Ski bum bar in Mountain Village. Good tacos, nachos and tater tots.
On the mountain
Gorrono Saloon - There’s a ski-in bar/restaurant in the middle of the mountain called the “Goronno Ranch” where you can chill outside in multiple seating areas, but look for the tiny, century old, one room structure just off to the side with the “Goronno Saloon” sign. This is the jackpot where you’ll find a small bar heated by a central potbelly stove.
Allred’s - Majestic bar/restaurant that is half way up the hill just off the gondola with an unreal view. Open to all for apres-ski. But if you know a club member, try hitting them up for a lunch reservation where upon entering, they collect your ski boots and give you slippers to wear during your meal.
Telluride
Bruno - Great coffee shop downtown that’s connected to a cool bookstore.
Ajax Trading Company - I looked at a dozen shops for cool merch, and this is the one place that had fresh, unique stuff.
On the mountain
Telluride Ski Resort - The town and the ski resort are inextricably linked, and the remote location and unique geography make this one of the world’s best places to ski. Whether you are heli-skiing in search of untracked powder, looking to push yourself on challenging terrain, or simply seeking a serene run with good scenery, skiiers of all skill levels will find plenty to their liking. It’s not uncommon to have a hill all to yourself. Every lift to the top of the mountain offers a blue or green way down which truly makes skiing here enjoyable for all.
The Gondola - Almost 30 years old and still a first of its kind in the US, this gondola service is essentially the coolest form of public transportation you can experience, and it’s FREE. Runs daily from 6:30am to midnight, consists of three stations, and takes about 12 minutes to go from end to end.