Wandering Seoul. Part 3. Streams and food.
The more you know something, the more pieces of it you want.
Part 1 is here. Part 2 is here.
Stream walks
Walking along small rivers or streams in Seoul is another pleasurable time spending. Some of these areas are not heavily SNSized, what helps to make them more enjoyable and peaceful.
The king of the stream walks in Seoul and which I recommend to do only once since it is on all possible tourist booklets is Cheonggyechong. I often catch myself thinking that pronouncing Korean words/geographical names is similar to weight lifting, but done by the tongue. Not easy, right?
This walk can be combined with exploring Dongdaemon area and the adjacent markets.
Another good walk is the so called Songpa trail which combines strolling through a few streams and is around 21 km long.
The map of the walk can be obtained at Songpa Tourist Information center which is located inside Seokchong Lake Park near Lotte World in Jamsil area. Here is the map you can spot en route as well.
But my favourite route is along Yangjaecheon stream walk. It is not heavily marketed compared to Songpa trail although both are very close.
To get there I walked towards Samseong long bridge connecting Samseong area with Olympic park and turned right before entering the bridge (opposite the large building of Gangnam Fire Brigade), then walked opposite to the traffic around 5 minutes and descended towards the stream near a drive test center. After walking for a while, you will see the sign inviting to go left to Tancheong stream, but if you go straight, it will take you to Yangjaecheon stream.
Here is the stream view from a small bridge.
Water mill.
There are wooden decks in some areas.
After wandering around one hour, I decided to make U-turn and check Tancheong stream. On the way I have crossed Tancheong Bridge 1 and saw these signs.
I have walked towards Jangjicheon.
Even on Sunday, not crowded at all.
Some artworks on the trail.
Unfortunately, the road was closed for repairs at the area adjacent to Garak wholesale market, so I made my way to the nearest train station (with the same name) and returned back.
“Map” of the walk below.
FOOD
As I mentioned in my earlier blogs Korean food is my favorite. It is spicy when you want it, crunchy, healthily balanced (always plenty of vegetables are served with meat), contains many fermented dishes.
But my favorite component of the cuisine is banchan. Which is a culture by itself. Banchan are small side dishes which are normally brought to you together with your main dish or before. In some places they have self-service containers from where you can pick up more kimchi, for example. The variety of banchan is huge. And most dishes are made of vegetables.
Below is my favourite cheonggukjang- fermented soybean stew. The actual main dish is the one on a heater, boiling. Then there is a bowl of brown rice near the bottle of Sierra beer, and the rest is … BANCHAN. The price of this feast including the bottle of beer is only 18,000 KRW (AUD 21).
The great thing about banchan in Korea is that if you run out of the dishes and feel like you want more, you can always ask to replenish all or just your favourites. Banchan is free of charge. In Korea. In Australia or Japan, they mostly charge you for any extra request after initial serving of microscopic portions. So, don’t eat foreign food outside its home country, is my long-time rule. Which I break sometimes only to prove to myself that the rule is correct.
Last week I went to Korean restaurant in Tokyo to have some samgyetang.
“Do you have banchan?”, – puzzled look in response. I have explained, realizing that the owner is not Korean. “No, we only serve it at lunch”. I left. In Japan even in Shin-Okubo area (Korean town) banchan is limited in quantity and variety. So, I mostly eat Korean food in Korea.
Another dish I have discovered during this trip is sundae (blood) sausage and pork set with stew. Price is 14,000 KRW. It was served in a quiet inconspicuous diner near Uri hotel where I stayed. I even took a picture of the place. “Nothing special”, as we often say, became special to me.
Another favorite I have at least once every time when in Korea is samgyetang – chicken ginseng soup. There are varieties including black chicken, with abalone, perilla leaves, etc. The soup contains herbs and jujube, with rice inside.
Buchu (leek pancake) is another long-time passion. Can’t pass by…
Below is leak pancake and fried kimchi tofu stew set ( I have already finished half of the pancake …).
The staple of the staples for me is kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew).
Eating all this for a week or so will inevitably call for a change in menu. Sometimes.
Whereas 10 years ago I was vocal about how Korean bread shops offer rich variety I sometimes even do not see in Europe, now the scene is getting more sophisticated.
Take Paris Croissant chain. Great bites, although a bit expensive compared with traditional Korean fare.
Hot cranberry juice and cranberry chicken sando 16,200 KRW.
And they open early. Sporting a very appetizing line up from 7 am.
Sweets. Korean cafes offer a fascinating range.
Dangerously delicious…
So, I am finishing these notes and I feel like I have revisited Korea again and sampled all this food again.
And you know what? I suddenly want to jump on the plane and try the new dishes and walk the new routes. In fact, my dream is to take a train trip in Korea and move around. Choosing only direction, not the destination. And then staying longer where I feel like staying. Must do!
PRACTICALITIES
Try to fly into Gimpo airport. It is closer to the city. Line 9 express train will take you to, for example, COEX area within 40 minutes.
If you need a place for a meeting or a get-together location, café Jeonggeurida is a good choice.
카페 정그리다 (@cafe_jeonggeurida) • Instagram photos and videos
It is near Dongdaemon station, exit 10, facing Heunginjimun Gate. Many plants inside creating an unusual atmosphere. I did couple of my work meetings there to the surprise of the Koreans.
I tend to stay in Cheongdam or Samseong area, as it is close to the river. Hotel Riviera is my default place, but this year I have stayed in Uri hotel close to Samseong station and COEX Mall. I chose it because they don’t charge for the gym and sauna which is the case with Riviera. Another bonus is a rooftop area where I could do my morning HIIT circles.
Another bonus of the location is an impressive Boengsa temple with the adjacent meditation walk.
The area is also full of eating and drinking places, just all around the hotel.
As much as already well-known area feels comfortable, I have decided to explore other suburbs in Seoul for a stay. Next time I will try Mapo-gu (Hapjeong, I have mentioned in part 2 is there, plus there are many interesting food options according to the booklet I picked up at a local information desk).
N.B. Finishing these notes in Hong Kong. I did a long 25 km hike here yesterday and taking it easy today before flying to KL tomorrow. The hikes in Hong Kong are very scenic. And there are a lot of them. Topic for the next blogdiary.