Siem Reap, our Cambodian Chapter
This little, charming town has been on our hit list forever. What did I dream of when I dreamt of Cambodia? Exactly what it offered, and so much more: a mystic reality, that’s what.
When we decided to give Siem Reap five nights instead of four, I was certain it was a wise amendment to our previous four-night five-day plan. However, when we mentioned the number to some of our friends, they were tickled, “What is there to do there for five whole days, you’ll be done in two!” How wrong they were!
From the time we landed in warm Siem Reap, it won us over with its wide streets and tree-lined avenues; the colonial buildings, the silty canal running all the way to the end of the long road, and the countless tuk-tuks that waved out to us on our first afternoon, as we made our way to Pub Street looking for food outlets. It was all beguiling. There sprung upon us many a surprise in the number of Indian eateries, leaving traces of cheer on my vegetarian husband’s face. I chuckled along, since it was easiest to grab a bite without the fear of it being lined with some sort of fishy or meaty sauce; the massage parlours that beckoned and those whose lure we succumbed to. Eager tourists, we would take in whatever the country had to offer. Our cab driver had already steadied our expectations by speaking to us about Covid’s massive dent in the town’s tourist influx which hurt to listen to. We felt it too as we walked around. Tourists were sparse which was contrary to our expectations along with the number of hotels that had yet to reopen. The season, it would seem, was beginning right about when we stepped off the propellor-driven aircraft!
Day One brought with it, Angkor Wat temple at dawn, in an unmissable, surreal experience. I would have gladly slept in, having woken up the previous morning at 4 am to catch our flight. However, the desire to witness history’s silhouettes against a pink sky, which turns golden and then bursts into what I witnessed to be the most magnificent of temples, considered the largest religious structure in the world, dating back to the 12th century in Khmer style! Oh! was it worth every second of sleep deprivation! As we made our way from our tuk-tuk, by foot, toward the temple ramparts, our hearts glowed, and our eyes devoured the contours of what I’d been waiting to see for myself, for as long as I can remember. Mystic and spiritual it was! Me, with my mobile phone, and my partner with his humongous lens bound by the Sony Alpha 6500, were spellbound, half-listening to our Cambodian guide’s sweet accent, he who droned on with sincerity and practiced dedication, I wasn’t certain if it were his words that impacted me, or it was simply being in the light of history and its timeline, that left me dumbstruck. I knew that this temple is the only other one that figures on the flag of a country (the other one being Afghanistan). It took thirty years to build the entire temple complex and was originally built as a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu (the Preserver from the holy trinity), and it gradually took on the Buddhist garment.
What we observed woefully was that many of the idols had their heads missing- warring tribes, and religious conflicts had left their cruel stamps. We wonder if the times we now live in are any different after all. Religion continues to divest us of common humane courtesies and the ills that man faces, bear starkly similar visages.
We were being made aware of Angkor Wat’s beauty and its compelling stories, the murals depicting tales & events from the Ramayana. As the sun rose higher in the sky, bringing with it shine and heat, the levels of humidity began to exhaust us, and soon we headed back, albeit reluctantly.
Our tuk-tuk made its way gently to our hotel for a sumptuous breakfast and a short break from the impending heat of the day. Thereafter, we wanted to return to Angkor Wat, but we had on our agenda two more temples- The Bayon with 200 smiling faces carved in stone, along with very imposing stupas, and the Ta Phrom where trees wind their way in and out of the structures that are being held up, either artificially, with the help of metal and wood, or simply because the trees are their steadfast pillars, that won’t give up on their rock companions.
Ta Phrom temple impressed upon us the countless tall and eternal trees that were like delicately poised dancers holding diverse and impossible poses for an eternity. The roots were like silken ropes, sliding and gliding their way up and down the ramparts of the temple ruins. The stone carvings, and the walls left me speechless. Nature was at large- thick foliage on either side, marked by history’s stamps everywhere. It was close to 12 noon and the heat featured as a remarkable element of the day for us, forcing us into a stupor. All of the stories that came at us via the structures that bespoke a time in man’s life we knew so little about apart from what was left of these crumbling but regal temple ruins.
Bayon temple, as it appeared into our line of vision, was astonishing in its complex carvings and stonework! Mysteriously smiling faces are carved into the rock, and the locals, we were told, believed these to bestow luck and prosperity. There were a large number of monks of varying ages at the temple that afternoon, and we felt blessed to be in their company, simply by chance. The heat had, by this time, gotten to us, and we were swaying this way and that, even as Bayon left its mark upon our vision and soul. The day was ending on a positive even if rather warm note. We left, wonderstruck. Our day had filled us up with many thoughts and much to carry back in our hearts including the benign presence of orange-robed monks.
The following three days, we visited the immense Tonle Sap lake, meandering our way via its floating homes and shops- stopping at a Crocodile farm, which wasn’t much to write home about. The Lake itself was more like a sea- with no horizon in sight, and I gasped as our boat entered the massive body of endless bobbing waters. We were taken by the lush tropical paradise that lines it. What was surprising though was that the homes on stilts along the water, seem almost uninhabited. On enquiring, we were told that too many folk had been left jobless, and were barely able to scrape a living during Covid, but things were looking up, and time wasn’t standing still anymore. Even as we breathed a sigh of relief, a young woman approached us on a boat, selling chips and Beer to the tourist.
The Pandemic had certainly driven deep its claws, and some countries suffered for longer than others. It has been horrific, no doubt.
Kulen Mountain with its thousand Lingas, submerged in a long-winding river, and its gigantic, gushing waterfall held an undeniable strength and majesty, the following day, and impressed us. We received blessings from its generously cascading sprays by submerging our bodies in the pool of water.
The Lingas have been elaborately carved into the riverbed. Images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area.
The long drive upward to get to the special Phnom Kulen mountain can last up to two hours, and is revered by the Cambodian people. We had to abandon the Tuktuk and opt for a car, as the route can get rough the higher you go. The beauteous countryside, and then the green valleys one witnesses en route, make one forget the discomfort of the ride. It certainly refreshed our urban spirits and when it rained later, our hearts sang out.
There were plenty of tourists like us who jumped into the pool at the foot of the waterfall to receive the bounty of the Gods residing on this holy mountain.
Our final day was restful, simply strolling about town, and taking in the sights and sounds that form the backdrop of the relatively quiet town of Siem Reap, its kind people and the spirit it embodies. Language didn’t pose a problem as everyone around, even little kids, speak a smattering of English. The USD is widely used and accepted as a form of payment, as well at the Riel, which is not a strong currency.
A mention of our hotel must be made- The Château d’Angkor, la Résidence, stood tall, a gift of Siem Reap’s colonial past, and we were given a semi-apartment style room, with high ceilings, a kitchenette and a large balcony with trees hanging off its railings, where squirrels and birds regaled my morning coffee hour. We could not have desired a better spot to open and close our Cambodian chapter, and bid it adieu on a cool morning.
Siem Reap had granted our heart what it had sought, and when we left this charming town full of Cambodian past and present, there whispered an indelible and alchemic mix in our ears, as we watched its green earth recede into a haze from our small aircraft’s porthole.
If Angkor Wat had not already been on my list, it certainly would have been added after reading this write up! You have brought to life a mysterious and magical land. In your case, it is not “a picture is worth a thousand words “ but the other way around!
Apart from your trademark lyrical style, the information loaded into this piece makes it a great travel guide. I honestly did not know about the temples other than Angkor Wat.
The leisurely pleasure is immersive!
Excellent, detailed article. Makes me want to go back. We all loved Siem Reap (went there 5-6 years ago). Your descriptions of Angkor Wat, Ta Phrom and Pub Street brought back so many nice memories. It’s such an affordable and friendly place! Now after reading, I feel we need to go back to catch the sunrise at AW and the lake houses on stilts sounded interesting too!