The visually iconic black & white cookie is a reliable, timeless and universally adored NYC treat found in bodegas and Jewish bakeries all across town. The best renditions take the form of a cookie-shaped cake, and often include a hint of lemon. I tend to enjoy them both ways, although there are definitely moments in time when I do not want citrus injecting the zest of natural flavor into what is otherwise a canonically sweet chocolate & vanilla experience.
I couldn’t possibly try my hand at baking loosely Portland themed goods without the inclusion of roses. The City of Roses brand is strong and pleasantly cross pollinates with the local food culture, all sorts of rose syrups and petals make their way into chocolates, salts, sodas, lattes and jams — don’t get me started on the adjacent soap and cosmetic applications. The easiest culinary integration is of course the use of rosewater, but I’ve also procured some dried rose petals, they’re great to have around to sprinkle on delicate dishes, cakes, yogurts, ice creams, to add a little romantic touch.
I don’t really like using food coloring in my recipes, which is honestly a little off brand ‘granola parent’ of me. If the recipe *really* demands it, I’ll try to whip up something fruit or veggie based to at least provide the impression of color – beet, raspberry, blueberry, turmeric, spinach, carrot can get you most of the way there. In this case, a touch of rose petal powder worked into the icing, or dried rose petals sprinkled on top add an element of visual interest. I prefer the former, as it feels more true to the color blocked inspiration, but the latter provides a clear visual signal to attract rose lovers.... or scare away the haters, I suppose.
Black & Pink Cookies
Adapted from Claire Saffitz
16 cookies / 1 hour active time (2 hours 30 mins total time)
”Cookie” batter
1 ½ sticks butter at room temperature
2 cups AP flour (270g)
1 tsp diamond crystal kosher salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 cup granulated sugar (200g)
½ cup butter milk (120g)
2 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
Rose Icing
1 ¾ cup confectioners sugar (193g)
Pinch of salt
1 tbsp ground dried rose petals
1 tbsp light corn syrup
1 tbsp rose water
1 tbsp boiling water
Chocolate Icing
1 ¾ cup confectioners sugar (193g)
Pinch of salt
2 tbsp cocoa powder
1 tbsp whole milk
1 tbsp light corn syrup
1 tbsp boiling water
Start the batter: whisk AP flour, ½ tsp baking powder, ½ tsp baking soda, and 1 tsp kosher salt together in a medium bowl.
Cream sugar: add butter and granulated sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer and beat on medium speed using the paddle attachment for a few minutes until light and fluffy (or use a hand mixer). Mix in the eggs one at a time, including the 2 tsp vanilla extract with the last egg.
Mix batter: To the creamed sugar, mix alternating buttermilk and dry ingredients (about 1/3 of the dry ingredients, 1/2 the buttermilk, 1/3 of the dry ingredients, rest of the buttermilk, rest of the dry ingredients) until a thick, consistent batter is formed.
Preheat the oven to 350°F: line a sheet pan with parchment paper, and move oven rack to the center position.
Portion and chill batter: on a large plate (or two) portion out 1/4 cup dough balls to make 16 servings. Chill for 20-25 minutes, or until the dough is firm enough to handle.
Roll and bake cookies: Take six portions of dough from the plate and return the plate to the fridge. Roll the portioned dough into spheres and evenly space on a baking sheet, lightly press down on the balls to make thick discs. Bake until matte and set, about 12-15 mins. The cookies will still be quite pale, possibly light golden brown around the edges. Cool cookies on a rack flat side down for a few minutes, and then flip over and let rest flat side up until completely cool. Repeat with the rest of the dough.
Make the rose icing: add 193g of confectioners sugar and a pinch of salt into a medium bowl. Repeat to make a second bowl with the same ingredients and set one bowl aside. In the first bowl, add 1 tbsp each of ground rose petals, light corn syrup, rose water, and boiling water and whisk to combine. The icing should be pourable and ribbon when lifted from the bowl, but thick enough to coat the surface of the cookie — adjust with more boiling water or sugar to make thinner or thicker.
Apply rose icing to cookies: use the icing to paint 1/2 of each cooled cookie with a small offset spatula. Dip the spatula into the icing and lift it up to form a ribbon, use this ribbon to drag a straight line down the center of the cookie, then continue icing the first half out to the edge. Let cookies rest on the cooling rack until the icing is set.
Make and apply chocolate icing: retrieve the second bowl of sugar and salt. Whisk in 2 tbsp of cocoa powder and 1 tbsp each of whole milk, corn syrup, and boiling water. Adjust until desired consistency is reached and ice the remaining half of the cookies. Let rest until icing is completely set.
Enjoy cookies as soon as possible. Store at airtight at room temperature for up to 3 days or wrap tightly in plastic wrap and freeze, reviving overnight in the fridge.