Retail Diary: Book Club - "Glossy: Ambition, Beauty, and the Inside Story of Emily Weiss's Glossier"
The Beauty tell-all. Behind the scenes hustle during the #girlboss era. Glossier and Emily Weiss. Let's read into it.
“Glossy: Ambition, Beauty, and the Inside Story of Emily Weiss’s Glossier” by Marisa Meltzer order your own copy from Bookshop.org, pick up at a local book store or reserve from your Library.
*I had hoped to have read, written and sent this Retail Diary: Book Club newsletter last week. Frustrated with myself that it took longer (of course it did, this is something I do in my “free time.”) Now I know why I subconsciously took an extra weekend plus. Today, one of my favorite retail and beauty podcasts came out after a months long hiatus. Eyewitness Beauty with Nick Alexrod-Welk and Annie Kreighbaum. Both are former Glossier employees (from pre-Glossier, Into The Gloss days) and are discussed in the book Glossy. I think they also have an interesting point of view on this story, how it was written, and their feelings and I’m glad the podcast was published in time for me to include. The first 20 minutes delve into this topic. You can listen here.
Overview:
This book isn’t a take down of Glossier or the Founder Emily Weiss, but it is more about the themes of business and what was going on behind the millenial pink curtain. I’ve also always loved how the business of Glossier making products was founded on the Blog Into the Gloss and the community and commentary. The idea of starting a business with products all about the consumer and their needs was fantastic. So I was excited to read about these inner conversations. Meltzer also takes us through all the bumpy roads (girl boss, backlash from #outtathegloss, and how they handled diversity and Black Lives Matter) and the moments where Glossier and Weiss could have fallen apart but they made it through.
This book is written by someone who has been reporting about Glossier for multiple years and has had a journalistic relationship with Weiss.
Highlights:
Weiss “cracked the online retail code” of having customers order online before trying on beauty or never seeing in person.
Comparing the change in the business from the Nordstrom late 2019 “pop-up” (they only sold the Glossier You fragrance and confused customers who also wanted to buy other products from Glossier) to the February 2023 Sephora launch where the almost full line was available in retail. (page 174 & page 252.)
Prior to launching at Sephora, Glossier was one of Sephora’s most searched-for term. Speaking of this, Meltzer noted Weiss’s reluctance to launch in a retail partner’s store. “It’s possible the younger Weiss, if she could have looked forward to this moment, might in her naiveté have seen Glossier going to Sephora as a failure. But avoiding that turned out to be impossible. After all, even her beloved lifestyle brands, Apple and Nike are sold in others stores besides their own.” (page 253)
This Kyle Leahy (CEO who took over in May 2022) quote ““Let’s go back to the thing that makes Glossier so special.” She said. “ We’re not a tech company, we’re not a DTC company. DTC is a channel. It’s not a value proposition. We’re a beauty company. I believe we have a multibillion-dollar business here easily on our hands. I genuinely believe, in 2030, this will be the next household name in beauty.””
Recognizing that so many of the beauty companies (either ads, or complete profiles) look like Glossier and/or have Glossier to thank for paving the way.
Content YMAL (aka: you might also like):
Marisa Meltzer’s 2019 article about Glossier and Emily Weiss for Vanity Fair magazine.
Back Row’s Amy Odell interviews Meltzer. Odell wrote the biography of Anna Wintour which is also in my TBR (to be read) pile.
Priya Rao interviewed Meltzer for Business of Fashion on how and why Glossier tried to become a tech company. This was a trend of many DTC companies, and merchandise companies in general, claiming that they were a tech company when really the main thing they were “selling” was physical product. But tech companies can push for higher valuations. Eventually Glossier scrapped all the tech they bought/acquired and went with Shopify which is considered to be the top shopping platform.
An interesting take from Jessica Grose, NYTimes Opinion piece, on bosses and how they don’t need to be horrible people and mean to employees to be successful and get work done.
If you prefer to listen, the podcast Forever 35 interviewed Marisa Meltzer or the Vogue’s Run-Through podcast episode on the Glossy book. And as I mentioned above, check out the Eyewitness Beauty episode with Nick Axelrod-Welk and Annie Kreighbaum discussing their comments on this book.
Gloria newsletter interviews Meltzer.
There is a Harvard Business School case study here (for purchase) and you can listen to a podcast here where HBS professor Jill Avery discusses the case.
And get ready because Marisa Meltzer’s next book is on Jane Birkin and French style.
Metlzer’s latest article: on Goop’s 15th Anniversary and Gwyneth Paltrow for the NYTimes. I’d love to read a tell-all or behind the scenes look at Goop.
Big Takeaway:
Companies should rethink their expectations of employees. Glossier isn't the only company that asks even part-time hourly workers (who aren't provided parking, and one hour of work goes directly to covering parking fees each shift out of the employees pocket) to prioritize the company over their personal lives and other career opportunities, especially when it's clear that the company prioritizes profits and/or investors over other aspects.
How important it is to have a second in command (in this case a COO) who can challenge the CEO/Founder and also be a valuable sounding board and partner.
Unrelated:
What Else I’m Reading:
Hello Beautiful by Ann Napolitano such a special book about sisters, family dynamics and love stories (all different types of love.) This was such an incredible book and once I was halfway through I realized just how unique it was and treated every chapter like a present.
Remarkably Bright Creatures by Shelby Van Pelt I can’t explain it. I loved this book and I went into it thinking that I wouldn’t care too much about underwater sea life. But oh my gosh, loved it!
Independent Book Store to Support:
Bart’s Books in Ojai California. Outdoor bookstore. So unique.
Books are Magic, owned by author Emma Straub, is on my “I want to go there” list.
Thanks for reading Retail Diary: Book Club. Let me know what you think.
Sarah Shapiro
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And would love to hear any book recommendations you have - business, fashion or fiction. Please add to the comments if you have a recommendation.
Very interesting! I’m eager to read the book!!