Retail Diary: Sunday Scoop - Philo Files, Matches Fashion, Airport Style & more
New Phoebe Philo drop, PFW, making sense of Matches bankruptcy news, styling for everyday and airport looks and fashion newsletters I'm loving.
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This your Sunday Style Substack - where we catch up before the week ahead and enjoy all the fashion, trends and style content.
Phoebe Philo Files - Earlier this week we were teased with a second Phoebe Philo drop coming March 7th. It is officially here.
This second collection features 60 new styles in total and will be released over the next 3 months (March, April and May.) This March release was the largest.
The leather pieces are really strong and getting the most love - BUT they are really (really) expensive. This is coming from an audience already familiar with the high prices.
To learn more check out the insights Lauren Sherman shared in her Thursday Line Sheet and The Cut article written by Cathryn Horyn.
Styles to check out: the Bean Bag (Nikki Ogunnaike pointed out earlier this week on on Instagram Stories the similarities in the shape/style to the Hermés Goa Bag and I was reminded of classic vintage Coach here.) It’s a classic shape and is timeless - Phoebe, Hermés and Coach.
Published on Saturday March 9th, Laura Neilson wrote “Mixed Bag” for Airmail on how the reaction has been post very anticipated return and what we’ve seen so far from Phoebe Philo.
This article talks about a lot of the challenges in the non-traditional manner that Philo is operating in. This would be hard for any designer - which is why most do not travel this path. But as Neilson quoted Philo as saying in 2021 “To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me.” (*I was thrilled to discuss the Philo customer and shopping/retail ecosystem with Neilson for this piece. It made me think a lot about the shopper who fell in love with Philo during her Chloé days and has grown-up with her this current Philo Era.)
Philo's previous success at Chloé and Celine fuels anticipation for her new brand, but the high prices and limited size offerings pose challenges for consumers. Philo's marketing strategy relies heavily on hype, but the brand faces pressure to attract new clients and maintain relevance in a competitive market.
- was quoted in the article and I love the point that she makes. “Meanwhile, given her six-year hiatus, many of her customers have already moved on. “Most recently, I think O.G. Phoebe fans have found a new community in the real-clothes movement, and brands like Kallmeyer, Maria McManus, Attersee, and Tibi,” says Reilly. On the upper end of the luxury market, many women have migrated to labels such as the Row, Bottega Veneta, and Khaite. Now in the prime of their lives, they have already spent decades investing in their wardrobes.”
PFW Final Thoughts:
Listening: to this Podcast from Business of Fashion with Imran Amed and Tim Blanks on the major themes and moments from PFW.
Reading: Washington Post’s Rachel Tashjian’s wrap up of PFW (gift link to read behind paywall - it is really good!!) reflecting on Chanel (I mean, Tashjian added this “it can get high on its own supply for a good, long time” about Chanel), Louis Vuitton’s Ghesquière 10th Anniversary show - with +4K in the audience! and Miu Miu closing out the fashion month marathon with Mrs. Prada’s classic take on the preppy look that while Prep is having a comeback at many “mass mall brands”, no one does the preppy look in so many creative or original ways as Prada/Miu Miu.
Matches Fashion - still unfolding, and much more to come, but here is where we are at now ( I’m writing this Friday March 8th for context.)
Think back to the first week of January 2024 (so not that long ago, but still fashion & retail moves fast) find the details and links here about Frasers purchasing Matches in December 2023 for about 52 million pounds ($66.59 million) from Apax Partners. Frasers purchased the retailer to bolster its luxury offering. Prior to 2017 Matches was known for their discovery of new brands, curation and amazing customer service. Tom and Ruth Chapman were the founders and merchants behind the company. In 2006 matchesfashion.com went digital and saw an early opportunity in online shopping for luxury.
Matches has been a hot potato as retailers/investors have sold and acquired the retailer trying to make it fit in their portfolio. Frasers Group PLC put MATCHES into administration (aka bankruptcy) on Thursday March 7th.
Brands began severing ties due to delayed payments, leading to Matches' difficult financial state despite its once esteemed reputation in luxury retail.
- brought up a great point - what about beloved in-house brand Raey? I wonder if they will spin it off (try and sell through House of Fraser or ASOS (though the price point and customer is too different - but House of Fraser owns 23% of ASOS.) How about selling off assets like Raey, to a retailer like Revolve sister company FWRD? (I’m thinking and dreaming here, retail matchmaking.) I recently mentioned Revolve partnering with influencer Marianna Hewitt on an exclusive brand.
My personal thoughts: while larger companies bought Matches hoping it would become the luxury gem and bring them into the high-end online and in-person shopping experience, they were not able to keep the heart of Matches - the curation, discovery of new designers and brands and exceptional shopping experience. The impact and bumps to the luxury market from 2020 through now haven’t helped much either. I believe it could be saved via sale again to a partner willing to make the financial investment and difficult strategic planning, but not sure of the likelihood of that happening because it would be a long time until they would see any return on investment.
Read more from WWD here (March 7) and here (March 8), from Business of Fashion here and about the Chapmans from BoF here.
Oscars:
The Run-through with Vogue Podcast had an excellent interview with Danielle Goldberg. The stylist we are all loving with her looks for Ayo Edebiri and Greta Lee. The podcast also had more details on PFW.
From Lauren Sherman’s Line Sheet and Launchmetrics data I learned that at the Golden Globes this year the top 10 visible brands earned an estimated $83M in “media impact value” from the posts, tags, likes and impressions after the event. That was +48% increase from 2021. So what the stylists are doing - is working! Marketing and media is driving visibility for the brands. Goal is for that to translate into sales for the brands.
Post Oscars red carpet I’ll be watching Angela Hicks’ Instagram. Thrilled to learn more about her from this Hollywood Reporter profile “How to Make an Iconic Oscar Gown From Scraps” by Max Berlinger. (Has anyone hired Hicks’ to do windows before? Like Holiday Windows at Bergdorf, Saks or Bloomingdale’s? If the answer is no, this is a collaboration I would love to see.)
Alex Mill’s Spring Drop - I keep seeing these new pieces and they feel so fresh and simple for spring styling.
I’m into this Cardigan with piping, this fabulous blazer in the trending shade Olive Green (that I saw on both
’s Instagram Stories styled for an evening out or casual, cool and office appropriate (but not totally “Corporate Fetish” check out for more details on this “trend”) worn on in her Instagram Stories. This stripe sweater (I have a similar one from LY and get a ton of use out of it in Spring/Summer) and if you are searching for a Western style piece to add in to your wardrobe, here you go.If you are looking for ways to style (and any basics you already own) I love these ideas from Earl Earl by Laurel Pantin “What to Wear Every Day” inspired by 🥁 Phoebe Philo’s personal style.
Airport Style - I love this genre of dressing. It is another way to showcase functional, everyday clothing. I noticed travel content popping up (pre-Spring Break, before summer travel really takes off 🛫) so I rounded-up some of my all-time favorite travel posts along with fresh airport styling content.
Naomi Campbell launching a capsule collection with Boss (see the collection here) that is focused on travel, like compression leggings. Campbell has made headlines before with her travel style (although, with the new launch when you search the models name + travel the top results are the Boss collection news, which is maybe the point, to drive the other results down. I get it.)
Does anyone follow Bailey McCarthy on Instagram? I love love love her Trip Drip™! Not how I dress in my own life, but it is so fabulous, thoughtful, inspired and joyful!!!
Allison Bornstein has tons of great inspiration and styling tips. Here for using Airport Style inspiration to dress everyday and the Joan Didion inspired packing list here.
Be prepared to put your small carry-on bags into bigger bags. Airlines are focusing on the number of bags being carried on to the plane.
Substack travel recommendations:
- has the perfect travel - and checking out the Métier website experience and travel tote bags - the ultimate in luxe and organized travel.
Are You Packing Creatively AND Pragmatically from
(she is the Founder and Creative Director of Tibi) which is bursting with inspiration. But wait, there is more! I also love “A Suitcase of Ingredients.”- has cracked the packing formula. 3-3-3-3 and for a two day trip 2-2-2-2. Read about how she packed light for NYFW and what she actually wore in “What I Packed for 46 hours in NYC.”
Any travel post by
and any other Substack that interviews her like here or here.For the 90’s travel style inspiration check out
here.
All images linked in newsletter (Olsen Airport image via Vogue.com)
Substacks to Scroll:
- from gave us the round-up and details we needed on Socks Socks Socks. I got to share my favorite pair (three pack, and not too high which is great because I’m
shortpetite.) What Sarah James nails is the shoe + sock pairing. Thank you for including me. Then shared this on Cup of Jo about socks and it made me giggle.) - published “The Role Of Non-Colour Colours: An Experiment” and I challenged myself but I only made it to Tibi’s Color Wheel 3 (okay, maybe 2) once this week. Just be impressed I left Ring 1 for a brief moment. Part 2 was published Saturday with some inspiration from the spring runway shows with color trends. Non-Colour Colours Inspired by S/S 2024 Runways.
On
- come for the Spring Transition styles and stay for the interview with who shares more about working at Matches as the first e-commerce stylist.- “Retail's Big People Problem”: The fashion month left critics unimpressed, with exorbitant prices leading to disconnect between brands and consumers, highlighting the growing gap between luxury and affordability in retail.
International Women’s Day was Friday March 8th, but keep “celebrating” (we just want bodily autonomy, to be paid what we are worth and have more support for childcare etc.) Bummed I missed out on this t-shirt from La Ligne, sold out in my size before I could grab it. If you are disappointed too, you can wear your opinions like I do with these other options (which I have and love here) here or here. (*Any affiliate commission made from these items I will donate 100% to Planned Parenthood.)
What have you been reading this week? Add to the comments so we can all check it out. Thoughts on Matches Fashion? Phoebe Philo’s opportunities? Should we discuss the prices of fashion? I have so many thoughts.
Enjoy your Sunday Scoop.
Sarah Shapiro
FYI: I use affiliate links where applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (at no cost to you.) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me. Love that we can enjoy Fashion & Retail together in this space.
Catch up on Sarah’s Retail Diary:
Tuesday’s This Will Be Quick 3.5.24 - Fashion podcasts & Spring Style
Thursday’s Deep Dive Week of March 4th 2024 - PFW & Resale News etc.
Fashion Spiral 🌀 Kick Flare Pants
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This was a good one! Devastated about Matches… it felt like such a good curation with better prices than comparable retailers and so much less chaotic than whatever is happening at say, Farfetch. I hope Raey lives on—it’s one of the rare in house brands that I love.
Literally just sat down with a cup of tea and this was delight to read - thank you for the shoutout! I had such fun being interviewed by Laura!