Retail Diary: This Will Be Quick 3.19.24 - Phoebe Philo, Todd Snyder, Rodarte, Bag Charms and more
Phoebe Philo's first interview in a decade, a dive into Todd Snyder's business, what I can't wait to watch and unlock your personality by playing with the bag charm trend.
Images via all the sources linked below.
🛍️ This post is long (too much good stuff to share!) so you may need to hit “expand” or read it in your browser - I promise it will be worth it! 🛍️
This Will Be Quick is where I share content that is at the top of my list this week. Tends to have a fashion or retail focus but not always.
What I’m reading…📰
Article heavy today. A bunch for us to review and discuss.
Phoebe Philo Breaks Her Silence
By Vanessa Friedman for the NYTimes (gift link so you can read behind the paywall.) This is Philo’s first interview since returning to fashion after a 7 year hiatus.
Regarding storytelling and producing fashion runway shows, Philo shares: ““I’m not particularly into that,” she went on. “I don’t feel myself that I need a lot of that from other fashion houses. I feel that it’s just not necessary. To a certain extent you either like it or you don’t. Someone telling me a story isn’t going to make me like it more. It is a coat. It’s a pair of trousers. I do appreciate a level of straightforwardness.””
She is taking time to build the brand, so it seems that the drops are her sharing her POV on fashion in a thoughtful manner and once more is released we (as the audience, shopper, etc) will understand more of the Phoebe Philo brand, image and collection. To quote from the article “Ms. Philo views her work as one continuous collection and does not believe in seasons, which is why she prefers the word “edit” and divides those edits into “deliveries.””
Philo is also looking to be thoughtful with her inventory and deliveries. It isn’t about FOMO and driving up demand, but making sure the production doesn’t outpace demand and to use the data to understand the consumer’s wants and desires. (thoughts from Sarah (aka me): I’m actually really into this idea. It feels like a more successful and customer centered manner to build a business that can stand the test of time and benefit everyone. My only concern, is if that is the case, seeing what customers actually buy, we could end up with a brand that is very focused on shoes and handbags. Especially given the price points. How will this impact the building of the brand?)
Vanessa Friedman stated this, which expresses what Philo is doing, “She won’t articulate it, exactly, but she’s effectively trying to retrain people in how to shop and how to think about what they buy.”
More details learned: possibly a store or two in the future (NY, London, maybe permanent, maybe a pop-up), HQ is in Ladbroke Grove in London with about 100 employees, Peter Miles (who she worked with at Celine) helped her create the brand identity, she is dedicated to also figuring out the back-end of the business. Improved returns process, site merchandising and UX on the website etc.
Would love to hear what you think. Comment on this post and I’ll also add to the chat.
Loro Piana’s $9,000 Sweaters Rely on Unpaid Farmers in Peru
Business of Fashion & Bloomberg both covered this and the main considerations are that:
There are concerns about the treatment of vicuñas during shearing, as well as the impact of commercial interests on the traditional practices of Indigenous communities.
The community of Lucanas, which supplies the wool, receives only a fraction of the final retail price of vicuña products, leading to little economic benefit for its residents.
Loro Piana's involvement in the vicuña trade has been profitable, but questions remain about the ethical implications of their sourcing practices and their impact on local communities and wildlife.
Fashion & Retail article round-up:
WSJ by Jacob Gallagher “It’s Not High Fashion. It’s Upper Middle Class Fashion. And It Sells” about Todd Snyder’s business. Really interesting article on Snyder’s career, how he is building his brand/label (which was acquired by American Eagle 9 years ago) and he is serving a niche in menswear that is helping to successfully grow his company.
Booth Moore wrote “Why After Dressing 12 Women at the Oscars, Rodarte Designers Still Feel Overlooked — ‘What Does It Take?’” for WWD. After 20 years in the industry, with a lot of support and dressing celebrities without paying for it, Rodarte isn’t getting coverage for incredible work and a strong business with no outside investors. (Thoughts from Sarah: what is their arrangement with a Publicist or PR? Can the celebrities who are wearing them help promote them more? Is this something they need personally or professionally to grow - is this article coming out now because they do want to design for another house, perhaps one in Europe, or because they are looking for outside investment? What is the goal here? Also, it seems the trade-off for not getting the press, that other brands have PR to push for and larger fashion houses with lots of $$ they need market to drive sales, is getting to have autonomy and run the business and have creative control you want/your way.)
What I’m listening to…🎧
I started the Acquired podcast episode on LVMH and of course it is fantastic. A few insights I’m enjoying so far:
This stat on a study Coach commissioned in 2000 is the kind of data that helps hammer down the significance on handbags and the opportunity. The average American woman who purchases a handbag, purchases 2 a year. By 2004 that number grew to 4 a year.
The shift in the business model in the 1990s when LVMH changed the game by bringing the Japanese department store model of “store within the store concept” or sometimes referred to as “shop in shop” to US department stores. It was a way of 1) owning the distribution model and being more direct to consumer. By owning the experience they could create it to be more upscale which is what is required of luxury and 2) keep a higher percentage of the margins by pocketing more and only paying a smaller leasing fee.
There is so much more - around the attempted Gucci buy out, the attempt to take over Hermés. Real Estate and how that plays in to the finances/investments and the creative teams and employees, etc.
This Glossy podcast features an interview with Heather Kaminetsky, President of Mytheresa North America. It offers valuable insights, especially now as luxury online retailers face challenges.
Trending…🚀
Bag Charming
Amongst Hermés and Fashion lovers, the story of Jane Birkin meeting former CEO of Hermés Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in the 1980s and creating the Birkin to hold all of her items vs the straw baskets she was known for toting is well known. I mean, if we don’t dream of owning a Birkin we dream of having someone design the perfect handbag just for us. (Just for fun, It’s Not A Bag by
)Jane Birkin's personal touch and unique style extended beyond mere inspiration of the Birkin bag. She famously adorned her bags with various charms, stickers, and personal trinkets, transforming them into individualized works of art. From whimsical keychains to sentimental tokens, each embellishment added a touch of personality and whimsy to her beloved accessory. Her relationship to her bags helped sell her personal bags at an auction for over 6 figures a few years ago.
Perhaps related to Jane Birkin’s passing in July 2023, her creative, personalized and DIY aspect to the bags is trending. Last summer this trend started popping up. I think the DIY friendship bracelets from Taylor Swift potentially could have helped (beads and crafting materials were everywhere and for everyone. But I also might be just saying this since I love Swift and I have the Eras Tour Movie playing in the background as I work. I’m self aware of my bias.) The Miu Miu and Balenciaga decorated bags from the Spring/Summer 2024 runways are now hitting stores and this trend seems to be sticking around for Fall/Winter 2024 too. I love when the vintage scarves, playful charms and embellishments all carry personal meaning. There is certainly an allure in personalization and owning something that feels one-of-a-kind.
I’ve written about this before, but I wanted to round-up others who have inspirational content via
and here from Airmail, and data driven insights as well as share more ideas for how to have fun decorating and personalizing. For your base, check out Big Bag Energy by
Inspiration - Charm Offensive
Images via Getty Images, Coach, Balenciaga and links below.
Grab a key chain: if NYC also has your heart, jellycat heart is sweet and soft - I was shocked how many Jellycat Bag Charms there were, Loewe Panda would make a lovely friend, Etsy is a treasure trove (this adorable Golden Retriever in leather), sweet gift for a soulmate and if it is hanging off your bag a resale piece is a great way to go for the already worn in look.
Loop around a silk twilly: Etsy again for the win, Gucci via TRR, Hermés Silk Twillies.
Bag Charm says it all: LV charms, love this LV oversized clip, Parker Thatch nailed the accessories with everything from mini necklaces that will fit perfectly to charm collectors to beads, Disney collectors are covered with Baublebar, lol internet troll bag charm from Don’t Let Disco, Susan Alexandra has a cheery and bright collection,
Pouch: Anya Hindmarch’s everyday objects are amazing (of course it would be a Diet Coke for me), a designer charm pouch to fit ear buds (or anything else tiny)
Straps to add function: Clare V. has an amazing assortment, so does Coach, remember the Fendi bag straps?
I would personally stay away from stickers (makes me nervous about the leather) but maybe get a monogram painted on.
Full link to dozens of ideas here.
Looking for more trends?
For more trend watching, note that
is now on Substack with the first post “The 12 Year Trend Cycle.”
What I’m (planning on) watching…📺
I want to watch “An Oprah Special: Shame, Blame and the Weight Loss Revolution” which will be available to stream Tuesday March 19th (first airs Monday March 18th on ABC.) (More information here on how to watch.) A few reasons why I’m interested:
Oprah was on the Board of WW (previously called Weight Watchers) for almost 10 years and she recently left. Apparently either due to a) being able to produce and air this show and/or b) because she was using a weight-loss drug.
This story about the WW GLP-1 influencer program and the backlash it received. Certainly an interesting marketing story about a consumer services brand.
The impact of GLP-1s on the broader consumer industry.
I also wonder if this is to help search results for “Oprah” “weight loss” “GLP-1s/Ozempic” etc. Bury some items and make her investigative show rise to the top.
Oprah. Enough of a reason to watch. I’m sure we’ll have memes, quotable moments etc.
More I want to watch, “High & Low: John Galliano” about his career, his terrible antisemitic comments and beliefs that led to his conviction and loss of career to his return. A really important story especially with the increase in antisemitism now.
“Who Is Sabato De Sarno?” is a 20 minute documentary on the new Gucci Creative Director.
What have I been watching?
I know I said I only trust
for Royal news, but that didn’t restrict me from getting pulled into Popapologist instagram reels - yes, they are sensational. Yes, they probably have no real basis or reason for me to trust the news. But of course, yes, they are truly entertainers. As of Monday March 18th there are now 29 parts out and it makes me feel like after the Reesa Teesa of it all, we have a new way to go viral.Last Bits…📣
Amazon is having a sale, like Prime Day, but open to all customers - not just members. A 6 day sale event seems a little long for Amazon - not driving urgency. But the sale will certainly drive revenue considering the first day of last summer’s Prime Day event was their largest sales day ever. There are also questions over whether Amazon has met it’s theoretical limit on Prime Subscriptions or some people have not seen the value - perhaps this is another way to convince shoppers and remind them how much they love Amazon and to return to a subscription.
What’s Next 🗓️
Deep Dive on Thursday. I’ve been collecting collabs and new launches to share. Later this week I’ll also share a Fashion 🌀 Spiral full of History of the stripe shirt and links to trends and styles.
Recent posts to catch up on:
Thursday’s Deep Dive: Week of March 11th 2024 - Retailer Check in and Luxury News
Sunday Scoop: TikTok Shopping, Celebrity Stylists, Trends & Substacks to Scroll
Retail 101: Math & Financials and Retail 101: Math & Financials Part Deux - Markdowns
FYI: I use affiliate links where applicable which means I may get a small commission from things you buy (at no cost to you.) Thank you for supporting my work and trusting me. Love that we can enjoy Fashion & Retail together in this space.
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Just subscribed to the Acquired podcast! Speaking of podcast/fashion show, there was a nice Todd Snyder interview done by Recho Omondi on her Patreon that I highly recommend because she asks the questions you wouldn't see in traditional/independent fashion media. I also recommend her episode with Ana Andjelic.
For Phoebe Philo, the interview felt so contrived. It was if she was requested to do this interview. It was such a pity they didn't dive into the logistics and returns mayhem as it seems her team was ill-prepared for all the orders. I am left quite speechless because with her background and pedigree in fashion, she had the time to build a platform and a system that should sustain all this, especially as she doesn't apply the seasonality model and works by sending drops. I just think it is a little bit weird to read she is considering her platform a work in progress given all the advantages she has vs. a nameless designer who doesn't have LVMH taking a minor stake in their business.
Going to see High and Low solo this weekend - can not wait! Also YES to Aquired podcast. I listed to the Hermes pod the week before last...long but soon good couldn't stop listening ... half way through lvmh...love Ben and David (chefs kiss)