The world has lusted for intimacy and a connection to something bigger than themselves – the homemade, artisanal craft that has brought Portland, and then Brooklyn to a neighborhood near you, hits just that silly sweet spot.
What you wear around your neck, on top of your head, across your body and on your feet is no longer just a covering of some sort; it is an expression of your commitment to finding something special, and in turn sending the message that you are special. That is probably what vintage stores are relying on right this minute. Because they are popping up everywhere and becoming financially successful even.
In the Field, Ojai, CA
People want to feel connected to a place they feel is home and they want to belong to something that evokes their sense of heritage. Since technology and globalization changed the playing field so drastically it is the super tech and mobility of the world that has sent people straight back into what they know to be familiar. Not just hippy clothes, hand made fabrics, long lost knits and Amish attire, but most certainly inspired by it. You’ve left the house right? You’ve seen what people are wearing across the planet.
Shipwreck, Portland, OR
Li Edelkoort, trend forecaster and brain behind Edelkoort Inc, has for the last few seasons of her trend talks quietly promoted craftsmanship in fashion and the value of it, far far away from trendy and closer to what’s relevant for the world and what it needs right now.
Li knows best
This very artisanal economy is endemic in the fashion industry, it has swept across hard and has somewhat pierced the whole trade. We even seek out fabrics made by virgin nuns in the hills of Northern Italy and if that’s not available it wasn’t good enough for the season. Of course visible for the last 100 years, and some, in couture but now also in small brands focusing their attention on local craftsmen the shift is everywhere, for now. Even the mainstream brands are desperately trying to tap into the trend by offering what they call “one offs” or “authentic wear.” Do we even know what that means?
But where it gets interesting is where every small brand wants to out-craft the next by finding the latest trend in artisanal. These so-called authentic collections range from traditional African fabrics from Nairobi all the way to ancient Cambodian weaving techniques that are incorporated in fashion items and then the Mennonite dames sewing quietly for you. The next go-to-place is deemed exciting and therefore turned into a fashion gem - think Bali, or Ibiza or even Oaxaca, Mexico. Actually or even small town Pennsylvania. “Tribal” and all things “ethnic” or “different” cannot stay off the catwalks or out of the windows down the high street. Even writing that feels offensive, but that’s the way the business of fashion and of travel is spewing this out. But ultimately is it appropriation or appreciation? Let’s debate when I see you next.
Celebrating Kenyan Culture, Bold Textile Patterns Disguise Subjects in Thandiwe Muriu’s Portraits
The care for the environment and communities across the globe is noble and has certainly aided many families to have a plate of food on their table. With more luck and focus it could contribute to so many more people desperate for a work opportunity, but what happens when the trendiness wears off and it’s no longer ‘cool’ to produce local artisanal fare but rather something as high tech as possible made by machines operated by machines in the most authentically modern way.
A highly anti-trend brand, the Aman Resorts (known for their community work, timeless properties and integrity) has promoted exactly that with their support of a self-sufficient living craft center in Ock Pop Tok, Laos.
The Amantaka resort, in Luang Prabang takes guests to the center where they can see the cultural relevance and heritage of Laos’ textile and weaving craft. Instead of promoting this as an artisanal and handmade trendy experience Aman translates this as an ethical and respectful homage to an ancient craft.
There is nothing transient and trendy here; it’s about real people creating a better life for themselves with their ancient craft combined with some business savvy taught by the center. Stories of locals using their artisanal skill combined with the assistance from NGOs, government and the Aman brand have rendered weavers, designers and tailors in 11 provinces in Laos. It’s all about the sale, not banging the drum for this to be a trendy or “next hot spot” but rather bringing awareness to the cultural heritage is the antithesis of what the west is craving as “trendy.”
Speaking of what’s next and what’s coming…Edelkoort Inc. worked on an exhibition on design for the Holon Museum in Israel around the topic of “gathering:” the act of bringing material and textile together in different ways such as pleating, draping, quilting, stitching and smocking. Although her focus is around domestic design, the inevitable trickle down will find its way to fashion. Edelkoort says, “Handmade has modified the machine made. Jealous of our hands the machines have geared up to be able to embellish and decorate with robotics, laser cutting and 3D printing thus creating a hybrid between man and machine.” The perfection comes in the mix of the two and Edelkoort believes that “all industrial is cold and too historical, and all crafted is too cozy and turn of the century.”
Holon Museum in Israel
The inevitable next step for places like the Craft Center and many other small culturally intact production spots is to allow technology to work with their handicraft artisans and so take out the unnecessary parts of production. Instead of the slog, or invisible parts of the work, going to the hand of a worker using technology to speed up the process. Oh hello AI, I see you again. But then when it comes to the visible and important parts of the product where quality and skill is absolutely necessary, allowing the tradesmen to do what they do best.
This way “artisanal” will be viewed as something less trendy and more just part of the way things are, a global standard. It will be cost effective, it will allow humans to make more money and it will help people in ways we haven’t even figured out yet.
Travel, fashion and AI. All together.